Sierra Mountain Times

A view of the class IV Rams Head Rapid on the Tuolumne River.

 Story and photos by Kay Crow

On Saturday Oct. 4th, the Yosemite Chamber of Commerce hosted a celebration of the 40th anniversary of the “Wild and Scenic Rivers Act” passage. The bill was passed in 1968 and signed by President Johnson. This was the bill that created the vehicle to protect the Tuolumne River in September of 1984 from its headwaters to Don Pedro Reservoir. The Merced River, Kings River and Kern River followed after that and were passed in 1987. There is still much work needed today to protect the Clavey and other threatened rivers.

The year was 1984…the Tuolumne River was granted  “Wild and Scenic” status. Many people came together to stop a three dam hydroelectric project. We were successful. Some of the most beautiful wilderness was protected. The Jawbone ridge is exquisite!  Meral’s Pool to Wards Ferry Bridge provided some of the most pristine whitewater in the United States, averaging class 4 rapids during its 18 mile run through the canyon.

 Kay Crow at pool below Rams Head Rapid in 1984, the year the Tuolumne River was protected.

At high water the river is a roller coaster…at low water a very intricate maze through giant boulders. The campsites along this stretch including Rock Garden, Clavey (where the Clavey meets the main Tuolumne to create the largest rapid on the river with a 43 foot gradient drop), Grapevine Creek, Indian Creek, Tuolumne Powerhouse (rock foundations still remain from this 1905 structure that once supported two 500 horsepower turbines), North Fork and many others are each a spectacular painting in itself. For years there were remnants of an old suspension bridge at mile 15 which crossed the river to reach the Mohican and Mary Ellen mining claims.  Along the river one can still see the beautiful rock paths that the Chinese built in the early mining days and at mile 16 you can still see remains of the old Sunnyside Mine stamp mill if you hike up a short distance from the river. This mine was active circa between 1900 and 1910.

Spring rafting is fast and cold…plenty of whitewater. Summer is more relaxed. Rafters are dependent on the dam operators to maintain enough water from mid summer until the end of the season. A typical summer morning starts with breakfast, packing up the boats, then taking a short hike or swim until the water released from the dam reaches camp. Only then would there be enough water to navigate down stream. The afternoon is spent at a lunch stop and then the rafts head for camp. Camp is always enjoyable with plenty of time for reading, fishing or walking along the river up the Clavey or North Fork. Dinner comes complete with Dutch oven baked desserts from pineapple upside down cake to brownies and hand whipped cream. If you are lucky, in the early summer before the fire restriction is enforced, you may even get a river sauna. To create this sauna experience a teepee is constructed out of oars and tarps and rocks that were cooked in the fire during dinner are placed in a bucket inside the teepee. As water is splashed on the rocks it creates one big steamy teepee!  When you have had enough, all one has to do is walk out and jump into the river.

 Camping on a Tuolumne River sandbar in 1983. In the background is the “river sauna” tent and a volleyball net.

The beauty of this River has touched many. Because there is no road access along the river, it is more desirable to visit. The only other people you can see are other rafters and kayakers or fishermen and hikers who have hiked over the ridge or down the Hamby Trail to the Clavey. All of these people share a great respect for this river.

Tuolumne River Trivia:

- In 1927 Melvin Belli and Harry Cobden, while attending law school, navigated a log raft down six miles of the Tuolumne toward the Clavey. It took them 2 days.
- The Tuolumne River’s screen debut was in the 1940’s film “For Whom The Bell Tolls” starring Gary Cooper and Ingrid Bergman.
- The river was also pictured in “Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom” in 1984 starring Harrison Ford and Kate Capshaw.